Last Day in Bangkok, and Asia

Day 25:

So on Friday, we awoke to Barack Obama's convention speech spectacular and our last day, not only in Bangkok, but in Asia all together.

We packed our two giant suitcases (one of which we had to purchase in Thailand to accommodate all the new swag we bought) and one box of spices, praying that we wouldn't go over the airline's weight limit.

We wondered around our new neighborhood in Bangkok, and happened upon this lovely little restaurant where we proceeded to eat papaya salad (phet: spicy), chicken pad kra prow (basil sauce), and gai yang (roasted chicken with thai herbs) made by these very nice ladies in an outdoor kitchen. Total bill: less than $10 US.

Then we made our way over to a cute little spa, where we got 30 minute feet and leg massages, accompanied by hot ginger tea, for $6 each. Feeling very rejuvenated, we headed back to Platinum Center, the wholesale mall, to buy some additional gifts and to give Aor, the T designer one of Sean's CDs. And it was there, because the world is small, that we met a Malaysian man and woman. She, Joselyn Pang, as it turns out works in the Thai office of amfAR and knows our friend Eric Muscatell. She had just been to the NYC office two weeks before!

After Platinum, we fought the rush hour crowds for a taxi to take us to the show spectacular, Siam Niramit, to no avail. No cabs would take us there because it was on the outside of the city, and difficult for them to get fares back. Finally, after some haggling, we agreed to let one take us for 200 baht (a kind of rip off by Thai standards, but about $6. The meter would have cost about $2 US.)

Siam Niramit is a musical spectacular with 150 cast members (including goats, roosters and elephants), 500 costumes, all performed on the world's biggest stage (complete with a river running across the theater). You can check it out at http://www.siamniramit.com/ We were meeting Andromeda and her mom, Akua, who were beginning their 10 days in Thailand before returning home to NYC. The show was moving and gorgeous, portraying Thai history and Buddhist allegories.

Annie, Thana and the kids met us after the show to take us to dinner. They informed us that it was good we were getting an early flight out in the morning because protesters had closed the airports in Phuket and Krabi, and the main train station in Bangkok. Things were heating up.

It was fabulous to see Andromeda again, and Akua as well, looking fierce as always. Our Thai hosts took us to this terrific restaurant/club called Sugar Beet, where we ate, danced, drank and raced go carts. Well Andromeda, Sean and the kids did - it's all on video, all 8 minutes of crashing and burning. And Thana arranged for Andromeda to sing with the band - she killed it with Killing Me Softly, Roberta Flack style. That, too, is on video for the viewing.

We said tearful goodbyes to our Thai family, who had been SO, so generous and caring and made our trip to Thailand something we will remember forever. Thank you Thana, Annie, Joei, and Joanne! We will see you again soon in Thailand, and in NYC, too. xo

Wishing Andromeda and Akua a great trip, despite the political unrest. I know they are doing their patriotic part to support the Thai economy during this tough time. :)

We hope that the Thai people can resolve this conflict peacefully and democratically. Thailand is a beautiful place, and we are grateful to all the people who showed us kindness and generosity of spirit.

Thai phrase of the day:

prai sanee - post office

(Significant because when we got to Bangkok airport, we were told that one of our bags was over the 30 kg per bag limit as per US labor laws - US airport employees can't lift more than that weight per bag. We had to go to the airport post office, buy a box for 85 baht, and empty one of the bags of about 15 kilos, or pay a $130 tariff. All at 6:30 am on 3 hours sleep.)

To The North

Days 23 and 24:

Annie and Thana accompanied us up north to a beautiful city called Chiang Mai, about an hour flight from Bangkok. It is Thailand's 2nd largest city, and home to many Thai artists and alternative folks - and lots of farang, because believe it or not, Chiang Mai is even cheaper than Bangkok.

Our camera battery died when we got up there, and we forgot the charger, so you'll have to appreciate the pictures in our heads. There are a few we managed to capture, however.

Downtown Chiang Mai is surrounded by a quaint moat, and lovely ruins of its ancient city gates. The moat used to contain a palace. But now the downtown is filled with shops and restaurants and markets. Motor bike is the favored form of transportation here. And the city is surrounded by gorgeous, lush, green mountains, which are home to hill tribes, which come to town to sell their wears - wood carvings, tapestries, and jewelery.

Thana and Annie introduced us to their friend "Pop" who owns a car/motorbike rental place and a fabulous restaurant, all appropriately named "Pop's." We stayed in a lovely inn called Raming Inn, right in the center of downtown.

Annie took us shopping at this market where all the local artists and artisans sell their wares, mostly of wood. The elaborate wood carvings are everywhere, and are highly, highly detailed. Annie wanted to be sure to equip us with lots of Thai spices before we left, so we went to Chinatown to Chiang Mai's largest market and stocked up on saffron (bargain basement prices in Thailand), chillies, chilli powder, green tea, jasmine tea, and Thai garlic, which Sean plans to eat on a daily basis so he never gets sick. Be assured that our friends and family who cook, will be getting supplies.

Following a brief dip in the pool, that night we went with Pop, his bodyguard and Thana and Annie to this fabulous restaurant on the river, called "The Good View." It lived up to its name, and the food delivered as well. A giant outdoor restaurant with a live band and pretty lanterns hanging from the rafters. We requested lots of American songs, and they played Sweet Home Alabama for us. :)

The next morning we explored the town on our own, while Annie and Thana did some business, and then they drove us up into the mountains to see the winter palace of the royal family, Phu Phing, and the most beautiful temple, Wat Pra That in the Doi Suthep mountains. There is a piece of Buddha's bones in this temple. We got a good luck blessing by a monk, and Sean got an extra blessing because he's a boy. (The monks aren't allowed to touch women, so he couldn't tie a knot on Sue's wrist; only the layman could.)

We made offerings to the temple and to the Jade Buddha, took in the views of the city in the valley below. Thana and Annie rang the bells in prayer, and we descended down the 300 odd stairs from the temple. On the way down we ran into this 5-year old girl from one of the hill tribes, named Boh, who was playing with her bouncy ball on the temple steps, dressed in full hill tribe garb. She spoke perfect English: "Where are you from? I'm Boh. What's your name?" Sue, of course, was completely smitten, and wanted to steal her, but we didn't think that was advisable. Sue, instead, had a nice conversation with Boh, and ended up giving her one of her new necklaces from Chatachuk Market because Boh admired it so much, and because Sue couldn't resist.

We made our way back down the mountain - Thana is an excellent mountain driver - stopped for a quick bite of seafood and noodles in broth, and then made our way back to the airport and our second to last evening in Bangkok.

We checked into our new hotel - our 3rd in Bangkok - and took in a view of the city from the 61st floor of the Banyan Tree Hotel (very posh) at it's roof top bar, appropriately title, Vertigo. It had rained in Bangkok, so the air was the clearest it had been since we arrived. Great views that rivaled those of Mado Lounge in Tokyo.

After two cocktails each, we cabbed it back to our hotel, and crashed out for the night.

Thai phrase of the day:
Mai pen rai - No worries.